SHRINKING THE FABRIC
By Ron Alexander
The
next step in our ongoing discussion of fabric
covering using nitrate and butyrate dope, is to
shrink the Ceconite fabric. This is a critical
step in the covering process. Proper shrinkage
is essential to a long lasting finish. The
process of shrinking the fabric that will be
covered with nitrate and butyrate dope takes on
a special meaning due to the shrinkage of the
dopes themselves
Nitrate and butyrate (even the non-tautening
variety) will continue to shrink throughout the
life of the airplane. This will occur both on
Grade A fabric and on polyester fabric. As the
dopes shrink they tighten the fabric they have
encapsulated. So today when you use Ceconite
fabric along with nitrate and butyrate dopes to
cover your airplane, you must be aware of this
fact. Use only non-tautening dopes to cover
your airplane even though they will shrink (to a
lesser degree than regular dopes) with age.
When using this process you will not shrink the
fabric to its maximum prior to applying the
dopes. You must allow for the resulting
shrinkage caused by the dopes themselves.
There
are several reasons why an aircraft has to be
recovered before the full life of the covering
system has been achieved. One of these reasons
concerns improper tautening of the fabric when
it is placed on an aircraft structure. If the
fabric is too loose it will create a drumming
affect in flight thus causing the chemical coats
to crack and peel. If the fabric has been
tightened too much structural damage may
result. Either of these problems will
contribute to having to recover your aircraft
prematurely. With this in mind, it is very
important that you use the proper procedures to
tighten the fabric.
The
fabric tautening process is much simpler today
than in the days of Grade A cotton fabric.
Cotton fabric has to be initially shrunk with
water and then allowance made for the fabric to
continue to tighten through the years from the
shrinking of the dopes that are applied.
Attaching the fabric properly prior to the
tightening process is essential. If it is too
loose when attached and glued you will never be
able to achieve the desired tautness. If it is
too tight when attached you will risk damaging a
structure from the subsequent tightening through
the years resulting from the actual shrinking of
the nitrate and butyrate dope.
Today's polyester fabric, Ceconite, is shrunk to
its optimum tightness by applying heat with a
regular household iron. Any additional
tautening is not only unnecessary but may be
harmful to the underlying structure. Too much
extra tightening can actually distort or damage
the component parts of the airplane.
When
you initially shrink the polyester fabric, you
must take into consideration the additional
shrinkage that will occur as a result of the
dope drying. Non-tautening dopes are available
that reduce the amount of shrinkage that will
occur. They are not true non-tautening -- only
less tautening. Additional plasticizers are
added to the dope to reduce the tautening
process. However, as the plasticizers evaporate
with time a certain amount of tautening will
occur. It is best to use non-tautening dopes to
minimize this shrinkage.
First
of all, lets look at what actually occurs when
you tighten polyester fabric. The fibers have
the capability of shrinking a total of about
12%. This will occur at a maximum temperature
of 350 degrees F. At 240 degrees F the fabric
will shrink about 5%. Below 240 degrees F
(200-225 degrees) the fabric will smooth but
shrink very little. At a temperature of 370
degrees F the fibers will actually begin to
loosen. At 425 degrees F the fibers will melt.
As you can see, it is extremely important for
you to know the temperature of the device you
are using to apply the heat. Because of this,
you should use a regular household iron to
shrink polyester fabric. The iron should have a
rating of at least 1100 watts. NEVER USE A HEAT
GUN to shrink fabric. You have absolutely no
idea what temperature is being emitted and,
furthermore, the temperature being applied will
vary according to how far away from the fabric
you hold the gun. Hide the heat gun while you
are working with fabric.
The
iron you use must be properly calibrated prior
to using it to shrink your fabric. You will
want to calibrate and mark at least 2
temperature settings. These are 225 degrees F
and 240 degrees F. Your iron should be of a
high enough quality to hold the desired
temperatures within plus or minus 10 degrees.
CALIBRATING YOUR IRON
-
Obtain an accurate thermometer with a
stem that can be placed under your iron. The
best thermometer is a glass bulb type. As an
alternative, use a candy or jelly thermometer
available at hardware stores. If you elect to
use one of these check the accuracy by placing
it in boiling water and ensuring that
approximately 212 degrees F registers.
-
Purchase some silicone heat sink compound
from your distributor.
-
Build a one-half inch thick stack of dry
paper towels. You will use this as a heat sink
to place the iron on while calibrating it.
-
Next, place a small amount of heat sink
compound on the bulb of the thermometer and lay
it in the middle of the paper towels.
-
Place your iron on top of the thermometer
that is on the paper towels.
-
Turn the iron on and advance the heat
control to the wool setting and watch the
temperature rise. Let it stabilize and then
vary the control to reach a temperature of 225
degrees.
-
Using a piece of masking tape applied
over the temperature dial, place a mark at the
225 degree setting. Vary the temperature until
you have the iron calibrated and marked for 225
degrees F and 240 degrees F.
-
Turn the iron off and allow it to cool.
Then thoroughly remove the silicone heat sink
that will be on the bottom of the iron.
This
process should be repeated each time that you
change the length of the extension cord you are
using, if you drop the iron accidentally, or
when you start a new covering project. It is
critical that the proper temperature is applied
to the fabric.
You
will want to purchase a small heat-sealing iron
in addition to your regular iron. This smaller
iron will be used in some of the non-load
carrying areas that are inaccessible with a
larger iron. Only use this type of iron in
areas where exact fabric tension is not
critical. Removal of wrinkles and smoothing of
tapes can be accomplished using this type of
iron. Calibrate the smaller iron just as you do
the larger iron.
You
must allow the fabric cement to completely dry
prior to beginning the shrinking process.
Failure to do so will often result in the fabric
being pulled loose from the structure.
After
waiting for the cement to dry and having
calibrated our iron, it is time to begin the
fun. Watching the fabric pull up and smooth out
on an aircraft surface is very rewarding. You
will enjoy this part of the covering
process.
If
you have used a fabric envelope with sewn seams,
you will want to shrink the area immediately
along the seam first. Failure to do so will
cause the seam to be crooked. As you begin the
shrinking process, the fibers of the fabric will
shrink uniformly and evenly. If you are doing a
large surface, such as a wing, begin in the bay
near the wing root. Shrink that at 240 and then
do the bay at the wing tip. You can then work
your way toward the middle of the wing. This
will help prevent any warping of the airframe.
Let the iron glide over the surface-- no pressure
is necessary. Do not worry about leaving the
iron in one place temporarily. It will not
scorch the fabric nor will the fabric get any
tighter. The amount of shrinkage is due totally
to the temperature, not the pressure or time.
Don't worry about removing all of the wrinkles
on the first pass. They will come out with at
the higher temperature setting you will do on
the next pass. Iron over the hard surfaces such
as the leading edges. Realize these areas may
act as a heat sink and require a little extra
time to properly shrink. Be careful not to
allow the tip of the iron to penetrate
protrusions or rivets and cut the fabric. Also,
and this is important, do not place the iron
over cemented seams. A temperature of about 250
degrees will loosen fabric cement.
When
you are shrinking fabric around a protrusion,
such as a wing attach fitting, iron around them
and after you have shrunk to 240 degrees you can
cut the fabric above the fitting just enough to
allow it to pop through. Make a small cut so
the fabric does not pull too far away from the
protrusion.
Shrinking the fabric is not tricky by any
means. It is a fun step -- but one that must be
accomplished with care. We are now ready to
seal the fabric with the first coat of nitrate
dope. That will be discussed next month.